自從盧怡安出書之後,讀者最常問「台北哪裡買魚腸?」「有次市場只剩下一點點,我要買,老闆居然問我是要釣蝦嗎?」在台北,多數的虱目魚腸都進了釣蝦場當餌,盧怡安就是少數會跟蝦搶食魚腸的台北人,她筆下的虱目魚腸,煎出了台南人的鄉愁。
內臟控作家最愛 隱身三重民宅的鮮味魚露
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「有人跟我說虱目魚腸很難煎。其實那種難煎可能不是要多麼藝高人膽大,而是要能克服明明已經看到焦到要黑了,還要面不改色不翻不鏟,別去動它的那種心理難度。黑成這樣,腸才啪滋啪滋地脆,肝的外層才ㄎㄠㄎㄠ的酥。然後裡面軟嫩香滑。」~摘自《秋刀魚一條半》之「一個人吃魚腸」
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魚腸或清燙後蘸辣椒膏吃脆口,或乾煎炙出魚油軟心噴香,所幸在下港味重的「三重幸福市場」裡還有一攤虱目魚專賣店,老闆是台南人,每天有產地直送的新鮮虱目魚,能時時滿足內臟控作家。
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已歇業的幸福戲院門口前的「幸福海產」她也固定挖寶,攤上多為基隆嶼的船釣海鮮。「因為用手釣的方式,這家常會有一些很奇怪的魚,我就曾買到野生沙梭、鶴鱵魚。」買到熟了,不擅言詞的老闆一看到她,會默默飄過來指點:「今天這個比較好。」
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